Wednesday, October 31, 2012

High bouldering

The big one
With the change in the weather coming I had some loose ends to tie up before it was all done for the year. This meant a trip up high was in store again. The surprise was how warm it was and this turned out to make it a trip going for the shade of the boulders. Fist stop was a nice boulder with some warm ups on it and a couple nice moderates to get the blood flowing.
Morning sun

A nice VB to start


On to V2 sit
The rock is textured and super clean so all that was needed was climbing. I found a nice line on the arete to the right of the one above and made the quick onsite.
Nice V2

Sloopy topout
After a while and a lot of different problems I found some hard ones to work on. A nice dyno, some hard underclings, and a crimpy face all checking in between V4 and V6.
Hard toss to edge

Jab to a crimp

Big toss to slooper.
Next some undercling fun.
Incredible line with power moves all the way.
Then on to the dyno next door. An all out throw for a small slot then stick to to top.
Stuck it!!

Ya
Then I found a brilliant little lighback that had super cool moves.





































To tell the truth though the face to the left was the big surprise. A V5 send on the first go! Sloping crimps was the name of the game.





Stuck it!!!
All that remained now was a cool down on the way back to the car. A nice trip up between the trees will do.
Brilliant V2 and a great finish.
20 problems later and it was time to go. Bring on the rain its time to get back to cleaning more rocks for the winter.

Thursday, October 11, 2012

Rat cave sends.

I was out at the cave the other day to climb with Sam on his last day in Portland for a while. He was close to a send on his project out there and I had not been there for a while so it was going to be a great day. The temps were good and by the time things got rolling there were 20 or so people out there.
Rat Cave Saturday
We warmed up with laps on the warm up and Enchalota then it was time for some projects. I crushed held down but could not get to the send on supper burrito but I was glad for the nice moves. Sam had a good first go on his project and fell of with only a couple hard moves to go. Audrey was there as well and working on Burrito for her first 12b. She came close.










Next it was time for Sam to go for the send again and he fought hard. There were a couple times when I though it might not happen but he stuck with it for the send. Congrats my friend and climb hard on your long trip. Hear is a vid of most of the send.


Sam Send 13c from Tymun Abbott on Vimeo.