Last wednesday I had the chance to introduce someone to the Cascade boulders. I was looking forward to getting out and seeing what some other people had done as well so it was going to be a good trip. We started of at one of my favorite problems to get warm.
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| BLT V4 Jesse Firestone |
After some sends on the Cascade Boulder we hit the Cookie boulder for a nice pump.
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| Some like it Wet V5 Jesse Firestone |
Next it was on to something hard. I decided to show Jesse the V7 and see what hard pulling was like. He took a good look at the holds and the beta and went for the flash. He sent and what a nice send it was. Nice work Jesse. Right after he saw a right start to the boulder and started in on it. I think it will go soon but today was not the day.
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| Jesse trying to hit the first move on a new hard project. |
Ready for new things I showed the way out to the main screen boulder field and some boulders that were cleaned by people other than me. Thanks so much for the work people. We sent like crazy and did 7 problems from V0 to V6 but all in all one stood out above the rest for pure fun. Las Drogas V3 dyno! a big throw from one block to the other. Wow is the word.
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| Tymun sending Las Drogas V3 Super Fun!! |
Hear is a video make you want to get on this one.
Well I will be hitting the boulders this Wednesday night looking for more sending. Drop me a line if anyone wants to come out.
Hey, Good see some people stoked on my new problems. I was out there the other day and noticed some chipping on the jug to "Siempre hay que separar las drogas" as if someone tried to dull the sharp edge of the hold. Cleaning moss off of problems is one thing but modifying the boulders is not acceptable. I appreciate the development you have done as you I but there needs to be some use of "ethic" when developing and climbing for the sake of the community.
ReplyDeleteCould I get a name so that I know who I am talking to? I have not done any "chipping" out at Cascade Boulders. Nor would I. I have the scar healing on my finger from the sharp jug. I feel that there is a big differences between changing a hold from a razor-blade to a sharp hold and busting out the chisel and chipping a hold. If you would like to sort out the real situation please contact me by a non public method. This blog will not be hear for any form of climbing politics our I will just take it down. Any comments are welcome but if you have a problem take care of it off the public forum.
DeleteAfter some conversation with other bouldering friends that also put time developing boulders in the local area it has been decided that we will leave sharp holds sharp. Use tape to protect your fingers if need be. I intend to follow this to the letter and help keep the boulders as natural as possible. Confortizing a hold is quite a lot different from chipping in my book but I will not be doing either out at the boulders. Thanks to all those who helped in quietly working this out. Lets get back out and climb.
DeleteWord Son! Lets make this place fun and safe to keep the locals stoked.
ReplyDeleteHello Tymun,
ReplyDeleteWhere are these boulder's Located? I'm sure it says on here somewhere however I've spent about the last fourty five minutes trying to find where you listed directions and had no luck. Not that forty five minutes premitted a whole lot of searching(this computer is anchient each time I click on a new post it takes about ten minutes to load it haha). So you can see my frustrations in trying to track it down, thus me deciding to ask you instead. Any info will be much appreciated, as well as I will use impecable ethics when climbing out in that area. I am a bit of an enviromentalist haha so anythign that takes away from the natural beauty or is damaging to the enviroment is unacceptable in my book!
Thanks again!
Jim H.
Right now I just give tours to the place so that people can find the boulders. They are not all out in the open so tours work best. Please contact me and I will try to take you out there.
ReplyDelete