Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Back to Rock Creek for the send

Last time up at rock creek I came super close to the send on my project Electric Blue. This time I thought if I could get up there early and beat the sun I would have a better chance of the send. So I got a couple of my friends in the car and left at 7am for the crag. We arrived at the wall about 8am and headed up the trail. It was my friend Dave's first time climbing there and his first time back since he injured his arm about 6 weeks ago. This was good because there are a lot of warm-up's at rock creek to get on and I wanted to do it all right for the send. We started the day on some easier bolted routes before heading to the mid 11's to get the blood flowing.
Dave on a nice 5.8
The weather was looking great for the day so we just hung out and did one right after the other.
Dave and I at the base

Dave starting up a 5.8 corner

On the corner

The fun transition

Nearing the top with me belaying

Ready for the next one.

Cleaning the corner.
Next it was on to the harder lines for some 10 and 11 fun. Time to get the blood flowing.
Dave on a 10a

The leaning trees next to the cliff

I am taking a lap on the 10a

Dave leading a 10c
As the morning went on a couple of other climbers showed up to have some fun for the day. It was there first time out to the rock creek crag.
Climbing a great 5.9 crack

The happy belay
It was time for a go on the project so off with the clogs
and on to the rock.
Right up the center of the wall and just right of the shadow crack is the route.
It all starts with some hard moves right off the ground. A high step and very delicate move gets you to the secound clip but the real fun has not even started yet. Tight body tension gets you to the ok right hold on the face and you clip the third bolt. You slap your way up the arete with your left hand and hope your right foot high then heal hook with the left foot. Clip from a small left hand hold and be quick. Hear is were I thought I might take to much time and not have the power for the crux but the rock was cool and the temps were great so I felt strong and clipped the bolt with ease. Then it is straight into a small tips only pocket and stab high for a little 3 fingure edge slot with the left. Walk the feet across the face and slap the right arete. I take a deep breath at this point but keep the focus for the 11- finish. The first jug on the route comes to help you pull onto the ledge to clip the chains. I sent with confidence and a big smile on my face and Electric Blue 12b was born. To finish the day we climbed a great 11b crack and a nice 10c bolted line.
Dave on the 10c

Dave on the 10c

Dave on the 10c

Dave on the 10c
 What a great day at the crag! This 10c and the 11b to the right are not to be missed.
Dave half way up the 10c
If you get a chance head out to rock creek and check out the great rock. Keep on climbing.

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