Sunday, November 27, 2011

More Crag Development

There is a new climbing location that I am very excited about. It is in the Mt Hood National Forest and has a lot of potential. The routes are long and the rock is great. I think though that I will have to wait till spring to get back out there.
The Trail On The Way Up
So far the crag has about a dozen routes from 5.9 to project with a whole lot more to be done. Getting to the crag involves a 20 minute hike up hill through the nice fir forest. When you reach the cliff it feels like you are in a different world. There are only the sounds for the forest and the climbing friends that you brought along for the trip.
The Forest

Aproching The Crag
Passing a big boulder near the end of the trail.
Once at the cliff base the size is very quickly Apparent as the cliff extends passed your view in both directions and rises for 100ft over head.
Just part of the bottom.
Hear is just a few more shots of the rock and some projects I am working on currently. Hears hopping that I can get up there some during the winter months.
12b up the center prow over the roof. 10c in the crack corner.

long 11c and short 11d on this face.

5.12+ on the right side.

Thursday, November 3, 2011

My love for development

I have been developing route's for about 5 years now and new boulders for about 10 years. Over time I have found that this is what I love about climbing. It inspires me to take a peace of rock from untouched to a final climb. There is just some thing about the process that is incredibly hard and rewarding all at the same time.
Dave on Short Straw 11b 2007 Ozone
It all started with seeing some missing lines at Frenches dome. Dave and I worked cleaned and sent the lines and I fell in love with the process of putting up new routes. From there it went to Ozone and then to Enola were  I am still at work up there and will be for a couple years I think.
Dave on The Dark Lord 12c 2008 Ozone
Shain on Grace 12b 2009 Ozone
When it comes to putting up routes I think I hit my stride at Enola. What a beautiful place and the rock is incredible. Bullet hard and just barley there for holds. The first time I went there I fell in love with the climbing. I have now put up 10 routes there from 10b to 13a. I am looking forward to spring when I can head back up there for more.
The View From the top of Enola
Tymun on the FA of Grits& Gravy 12b 2009 Enola
Just writing this make me wish I was up there hanging of a rope putting in a new route. There is so much good rock still to bolt and climb it is incredible. Hear is a sequence from my 13a.

 I am always looking for the next line. Until next time keep crankin.

Craftsman Vans Trip

Check out the trip my friends over at Craftsman Vans are doing. Wish I could go with them.

Broughton's In Winter

So as it turns out you can climb at broughton's in the rain. One of my friends and I went out there a few weeks ago and had the place to our self for 2 days.
Brian Climbing at Broughton's
I did a lot of classic routes and got on Bad Omen to start working it out. I got the crux figured on my second try but no send yet. The route is incredible and well worth the work. Over the 2 days I did 20 routes up to 12b. It did take some time though to get back into the broughton's swing of things for sure.