Thursday, October 29, 2015

Deep Forested Bouldering; The Family that Climbs Together

Waiting for this day to come has seamed like forever. It's like the coolest thing in your life you can not wait to share with your kids but when that thing is climbing you need to wait for them to be ready. Well my daughter is six and asking all the time when she can go climbing with daddy. So with great excitement off to the boulders we went. She loves the forest so a trip into it for climbing and playing in the woods wast the best option she could think of.
Grace starting up Stairway to Heaven VB
She did awesome on her first problem and had to climb it about 5 times because it was so much fun. I have to say that things seam much scarier when your kid is climbing.
Looking at her feet like a champ.
Almost there!
On top and loving it!
On this day as well daddy had a project that he wanted to send as well. On to the next boulder to see if a send was in store for daddy as well.
Starting up Damascus Steel V3
Cleaning, sweeping, and landing management went quickly and I started into the unknown. At 24ft high I was making sure to put myself in the zone for maximum concentration. Before this I had never been on this line before did not want to take the plunge from the top.
Hand on the jug.
With the cool opening moves sent and my hands on the jug just below the summit I started to think about the send. I new to just stay focus on the climbing but had to step up my game for what came off the jug.
Setting up for the final moves.
Ok lets do this.
To my surprise I found a small left hand hold was all that was there for the exit moves and a big high step then mantel would be the finish. I must say that some sweating was involved looking a the big drop to the ground but pushing it back and rocking over the top followed and the send went down. Motivation is great and having a daughter cheering for you in the background helps as well.
Happy at the boulders.
Glad to have spent this day with my daughter climbing I bought her her first pair of rock shoes a couple weeks later.

Friday, October 23, 2015

Cascade Bouldering Update

Rain, the one thing that stops climbing. It was coming down in Portland bit we wanted to go climbing anyway. I filled the car with every kind of climbing gear and headed out to the gorge to see what I could find. When I arrived at cascade locks things we dry so I decided to hit an area that I have not been to for a couple of years. It's not that there is not a lot of boulders to develop at cascade boulders but I got distracted with other things.
We headed up the trail to the orchard boulders and found a thin covering of moss on all the problems. This is the northwest and things grow fast. Because of the moss we could only climb on a couple of boulders and so we headed onward. When I reached the power lines I noticed a small trail heading to the left and some recently cleaned boulders.
Click to enlarge image.
All the lines that I did were sit starts but still fun. The middle V1 is a nice lie back arete and the V0 on the far right is supper nice as well. Thanks a lot to who ever cleaned and developed this little group of boulders. This map shows the lines that I did while I was hear.
This is the overhang just left of center. Fun dead points between great holds.
Pulling the lip
Topping out.
I must have done the arete about 8 times. The feel of the balance was very nice on that one.
Working my way up the arete.
My brother was there and had some fun with us as well. He has been climbing more lately and is getting better all the time.

We both can't stop smiling.
On one of the problems he was having a little trouble putting the first moves together so with a little coaching the send went down.
Beta and one more try.
Sending and smiling.
We had a great time out and climbed till the rain came and sent us back to the car. I just climb for the fun of it and like great rock of all sizes. Over the years I have climbed from the one move wonder boulder problems to the 35 foot high balls and love them all. This last sequence is of the boulder on the far right side of the topo image.

One more lap and one more smile.
Looking forward to the next adventure and the next boulder whatever size they may be.

Sunday, October 18, 2015

Deep Forested Bouldering; A northwest staple.

Hear in the northwest it's not that we do not have boulders out in the open but that we have a lot of boulders in the deep forest. I feel that one of the cool things this brings to bouldering is the feel that you have been transported to a different land. Because of this I feel that the boulders we find are like hidden jewels that can be seen from the road our the air. This in turn for me adds to the coolness of climbing experience.
Aqueduct V3 Crux at the start 20' high.
Aqueduct starting through the middle section on incredible pockets.
Aqueduct enjoying the pocket ride on this supper classic.
Aqueduct Setting up for the final crux 20' off the deck.
Aqueduct a small shallow pocket with a big move to the slooper top guards the exit.
Aqueduct just commit to the small feet and ignore the long drop and the send is assured.
Aqueduct is an incredible line that combines supper small feet that stick well with pockets that are just good enough. Then when you thinks its all done and your mind is starting to think about the height it brings a great exit move to spice things up. On the opposite end of this boulder is a line that focuses not on difficulty but on full value spice.
Centurion V2 is a harder start into Roman Empire V0
Finishing the crux of Centurion
This is the connection move between the two problems.
Continuing on Roman Empire a delicate dance to the top.
Roman Empire commands lots of balance and commitment.
It's setup time for the crux of Roman Empire.
A full commitment smear with worthless hand holds at 20' up!
Just trust the feet and go!
Roman Empire is an incredible line that brings all the great things of climbing in at a very reasonable grade. Looking for to the next thing that I find in the deep forests for the north west.

Thursday, October 15, 2015

Larch Mt. Washington: So much more to send.

Larch Mt in Washington, every time I go back up there looking for more boulders I find them. On this trip there was beauty and bouldering.

As we walked in the wild flowers were blooming and the closer we got to the small bouldering sized buttress we could see the more of the flowers there were.

Once we arrived at the small cliff band it was better than expected. About 18 ft high and with three sections offering a nice selection of new boulder problems to tackle. I quickly sent the warm-ups and moved on to the steeper looking lines.
Entering into the harder climbing.
Knee-bar found and into the small side-pull crimp.
Feet up and big throw to a small crimp.
Right hand up, now what?
Unfortunately I missed the next move and came down. After a quick study though I was back on for a send go.
Stuck the throw for the crimp.
Will this work after all it is a big move.
Bam! Success!
A great problem is born on steep great rock! On to the next one. To the right of this line I found a the next gem.
After a start move it's quickly into the big moves.
Match and go again.
A smaller selection this time.
Pinch throw the feet up and send to the top.
About ten new problems went down that day and I will be back for more.