Sunday, March 26, 2017

Deep Forest Bouldering: FA's for the kids.

Out again I went to the boulders in the forest to see what I could find. I like the idea that my kids can climb out doors and find things that suit the size and abilities. When I started climbing a log while ago there was no such thing. Kids did not even have a gym to start in so this meant there were almost no kids climbing. On this day out I found things for my kids and things for me all on the same stone.
Joy eyeing the start holds.
This stone is short for most of the boulders in this area of the woods but this makes it perfect for the little ones to climb on.
Joy wishing she could find feet and climb away from me.
Maybe she will send when she is bigger. Next it was my older daughters turn to give it a try.
First some coaching from dad and a little more cleaning.
Time for her to give it a go.
Thinking about the next foot placement.
Almost there.
And Grace gets the FA of Sleeping Salamander V1

Her eyes lit up and she was so happy! I can't blame her, I love FA's myself. Next on the agenda it was time to get on the send train myself.
One of the few sit starts out hear. It sets up well though.
Nailed the toss first go. FA John Deer V3 SDS

This was a supper fun day with my daughters out in the woods. They got to climb and so did I. Looking forward to some dry weather so we call all go out again.

Sunday, March 12, 2017

Deep Forest Bouldering: Projects Day

While I wait for the rain to stop and the sun to dry things out I thought I would get back to my blog. On this trip out to the deep forest I had an evening after work and wanted to get some projects done.

Conditions were great and fall was in full swing so it was time for some sending. My first project was on the Viking boulder and it was a tall one. This meant that the big pad was the pad of choice and so nerves were to be found as well.
Getting ready below Ulfberht V3
At about 18ft with a crux at the end it's full value for a boulder. The bottom overhangs a little and the top is vertical with pockets. The line follows the face just left of the corner.
Ulgberht V3
It all starts with a little balance move to a good right hand. Then moving the feet up takes some power for sure.
Rocking on to a high foot.
Side pulls on small pockets that are good till your stood up straight is how you get over the little bulge.
Pressing up to the hidden right hand pocket.
Hidden pockets for the right and a high slooper foot with no balance for the left foot. Just don't barn door off.
The crux long and blind.

Bring the feet up and go big is the name of the game. It is also good to note that the pocket you are going for you can't see and is quite a bit back from the lip. The lip is also very slooper. I was glad to send this one as it was a long fall down.
        On this high note I headed for some fun runs to get a little more warm before trying my hardest project out at this area right now. I have been working it for quite a while now and progress come is very small amounts like one foot move our containing one more hold instead of just touching it.
The Hart Project
 Move one is about getting of the ground. This move alone took me quite a while to do. Double opposition hand and a smear to a high left foot that is supper small gets you off the ground. I would say V6 on it's own.
Foot move two.
 Once your on the wall you have to lean hard into the gaston of your left hand so that you can't bump your right hand up high on the right side of the hart. Hard power for sure on not the best hold to catch. Maybe a grade easier than the last move. I am setting my foot up and in to get ready for the next move and all my wait is pressed on the smear at this point.
Catching the only horizontal hold on the climb.
The left hand hold is a half pad two figure crimp that just barely works. My big success for this day was finding the next foot that allowed me to set up the next right hand move. This problem is very hard for sure but I look forward to working it out and sending it someday. I think it will be my hardest when it goes. Hoping the weather changes soon so I can get back out and climb. Thanks for reading.