Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Back to Larch Boulders again

I like the new area up there so much I had to head back right away. This time there was more climbing to do and less cleaning and trail building. We worked on the rest of the landing area for a new boulder and then got right to climbing.
Huckleberry Boulder
This boulder is mainly a large 45 degree overhanging roof with good holds to climb on. The base has lots of Huckleberry bushes by it so thus the name. There turned out to be 2 really incredible lines on that were well worth the work on the base.
Doc Holiday V3/4 FA  T.O. Photo
If you like long moves on steep boulders than this is for you for sure. That last thing I sent on the boulder was a traverse and what a line it turned out to be. Mostly big holds with a lot of pump.
Huckleberry Traverse V4 FA  T.O.  Photo
Huckleberry Traverse V4 FA  T.O.  Photo
What a great end to a great day. As it turns out it was 71 degrees up there and 87 in Portland. If you do make a visit to Larch Boulders and enjoy the bouldering opportunities, do contact me and let me know. If you happen to set up new problems it is especially helpful if you could forward your latest beta so it can be added to the growing database for these sites. This includes Cascade Boulders, and West Fork Boulders as well. Thank you.

Back to Larch Boulders

I was thinking about some boulders up at Larch that I had heard about but not seen yet and thought it was time to head up and check them out. The temp for the day was going to be hot so I thought that the east side of the mountain would be nice. My friend told me there would be some trail to cut through the forest so I through in some tools for that as well. With things all ready to go we headed up the mountain for some bouldering.
When we got to the new area we started cutting trail right away. As it turns out there are little areas of scree with small sections of brush in-between them so it was the brush that had to go. In the end we cut trail for 5 hours but the boulders were so worth it!! The one above is about 14 feet high and overhung on all sides. My friend did a problem on this boulder but I focused on a different one.
Silver Boulder Larch Mt. Boulders
This boulder overhangs about 30 degrees for the first 7 feet and then finishes with about 5 degrees of slab for 10 feet. There are three nice problems on the boulder.
The Loan Ranger V5 FA   T.O. Photo
All in all it turned out to be a great day with some great bouldering. I did leave the sit start to a hard problem undone. Maybe next time. Please email me if you want to head out to any of the bouldering sites.

Sunday, August 21, 2011

More Cascade Bouldering

On Friday I got off work early so my friend picked me up and off to the Cascade Boulders we went. It was 85 in Portland but not out there. A nice mild 70 in the shade and even cool at the Pocket Boulders area. We cleaned a new boulder off and called it the Burger Boulder.
Burger Boulder
There are 9 problems on this boulder from VB to V4. The boulder is about 10' high at the peek and 20' long. The large face is thin and the arete's on the right are steep. I warmed up on the problems on the large face and  then did the high traverse from right to left.
Torque Converter V3 FA  T.O. Photo
On to the arete with a cool move off the ground to start. A cross to the jug finishes this nice line. The nice bulge on the far right has some nice lines on it for sure. Nice edges and a mono with some deadpoint's in-between make up the movement with a sloopy top out finish.
Mono Manipulation V3 FA  T.O. Photo

Mono Manipulation V3 FA  T.O. Photo
After a nice start to the day on the Burger Boulder I thought I would give a go on the sit start to my hard problem at the Pocket Boulders Perseverance V6 but on the way there i got distracted with this prow on the other side of the boulder.
Punch It V3
It turned out to be a fun little line with a throw for the top.
A said and done I had some success on my project but it will have to weight till next time for the send. Feel free to email me if you want info on the bouldering.

Thursday, August 18, 2011


Last Saturday I headed out to TLC with some friends. I have not been there for about a year so it was nice to head back again.
East side of Mt Hood
The weather was incredible so I new it was going to be a great day for sure. After some warmup's I flashed an 11c called Shanti and thought this just might be a great day for climbing.
Sam on a Warrior 10d
Next we headed over to a diffident part of the wall to work on some climbs we had not been on yet.
Sam flashes 12b
I did little buddy on tr because I had been on it before and had a good solid run. Next I thought I would try a 10d to the right a little ways but came off just one move from the easy climbing because I was to pumped to move any more.
Just some nice looking rock.
I thought that would be the end of my day but after a some rest i gave a 12a a go on tr and sent. Nice finish to a day of climbing.
Little Buddy

Monday, August 15, 2011

More Larch Bouldering

I was back up at the boulders tonight. What a great evening for climbing. I cleaned off the Black Forest boulder with my friend.The boulder is right below the Leavenworth boulder.
Leavenworth Boulder
We got it all cleaned and did about 8 boulder problems on it. Hear is a video of me doing the FA of Black Forest Traverse V4
Maybe I will head back up there this weekend.


Friday, August 12, 2011

Larch Bouldering

On Saturday I headed out to Larch Mountain in Washington to go bouldering. I have been up there before and really liked the rock and area. I have been focusing on a boulder we call the Levenworth boulder witch has some incredible lines on it.
It is about 30 feet long and from 8 to 18 feet high and overhung. The rock is hard andusite with nice holds.
Back In The Day V2  T.O.  Photo
I have been working my way across the boulder doing FA's. First the stand start the the sit if it fits. This day I did some trail work and cleaned the rest of the boulder plus started on the boulder below this one. It is like a 1 minute hike from the car for this one.
To Much Fun V3   T.O. Photo
After some warmup's I hit the project witch was to send the sit start to Iron Giant V4 witch I had done the Thursday before. It took 4 tries and a fall from about 12 feet but it when't down and was incredible. What a day.
Iron Giant Sit FA V6  T.O. Photo
Hear is a video of the FA of To Much Fun V3
Can't wait to get back because there is so much good stuff to do up there.

Friday, August 5, 2011

Cascade Boulders

Last Saturday i went back to a area that I had visited and done some new boulders at about 3 years ago. This time my friend had done a lot more exploring there though and said there was some great potential so off we went to see what the fuss was about.

This area was close to where I had been before but not the same. The hike in was about 15 minutes on flat ground. The boulders are in a scree area as well as in the woulds with flat landings.
BLT V4 FA Cascade Boulder   T.O. Photo
The boulders range from short to 15 feet tall. The rock is incredible and it is in a quite area witch is really cool. There was a lot of moss on the boulders though but we found that it would just roll of in one large mat witch made cleaning easy.
Stearweeller V5 FA Pocket Boulders  T.O. Photo
We cleaned 8 car size boulders in an hour. The above traverse is incredible. At the end of the day I had one last problem to do that I had cleaned and it looked hard but doable. I looked over the problem and figured out what to do then just as i put some force into the starting right hand hold it broke away leaving nothing! I rethought the problem and pulled on for a harder but possible send but my left foothold broke off and I thought now what.
Persaverince V6 FA Pocket Boulders  T.O. Photo
I gave it a go on the much smaller foothold and after a couple goes hit the moves almost to the end. Time to get on the real rock shoes (Mirua VS) for a send. Just as i stepped on the last little bit of the left foot crumbled away. I was determined so I saw there was a dime edge left and thought just send this thing. Next thing I know I am on top and thrilled. What a great end to the day.

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

More Photo's From West Fork Boulders


West Fork Bouldering

A friend called me last week and said I found a new bouldering spot with some nice large boulders. He said that no one had ever been there and there could be some first accents with a little cleaning. I thought great so on Friday I got off early and headed out. The boulders are located on the uphill side of Lolo pass road just past the junction of Lost Lake road as you are heading south.
I was supper excited right away. The rock is hard andusite and is 8 to 20 feet high boulders. I cranked of six boulder problems form VB to V4 on just one boulder and explored for a couple hours.
FA Apple Turnover V2 Prairiedale Boulder  T.O. Photo
FA Cherry Jubilee V3 West Fork Boulders Prairiedale Boulder  T.O. Photo

I can't wait to head back soon.