Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Cascade Boulders and run

I only had about 3 1/2 hours of daylight after work and had not climbed with a friend of mine in a long time so we headed out to the cascade boulders for a quick session  We got there about 4:30pm and went to the orchard boulders for a quick warm-up. I should him the area and we got right to work on the climbing.
Sam on Black Rasbeary

Sam On Black Rasbeary
After the warm-ups we hit the Black Rasbeary and the other problems on the Blackcap Boulder. There are some great problems on this one but the traverse is my favorite.
Sam On Rasbeary Gnosh

Sam On Rasbeary Gnosh

Sam On Rasbeary Gnosh
Then it was time to show him some more of the areas so off to the main boulders just south of the power lines we went. The Cascade boulder was the destination and we played on the clasic BLT V4 to end our day. Hooked up with a low traverse in from the right it makes a great V5.
Me on the FA of BLT.
It got dark to fast and we wish we had more time but that is the time of year it is. I am looking forward to adding lots of problems this fall to the area and putting out an update to the overview map of the area. Thanks for reading and keep climbing.

Sunday, September 16, 2012

Superman - The Project Falls

This story starts quite some time ago on a hill in the afternoon sun. I was out looking for new boulders and saw some good ones. The question was could I get to them. As it turns out I did get to them that day and sent one new problem. A traverse called Spyderman was born and I thought I hope there is more like this hear. Well as the sun was setting I found one of the best boulder lines I have ever seen in this area. With out a second to loose I hoped on hoping for the quick send but it was not to be. The holds were big but the line was upside down and so pumpy and core intense. Well maybe next time was the thought. It just so happens that next time was years later and last weekend. It all starts with the warmup's and there are some nice ones up there.
Superman V6
I ran up a few tall V0's and a V3 to get things working and then set in on the task at hand.

After a few tricky tall slabs it was on to the pumpy warm-ups. Mr Incredible was found and is one of the most fun boulder problems ever. Large jugs on steep rock the whole way.

Now it was time for Superman. It took me a couple goes to figure out the feet again but then it was time for some hard pulling. The problem is all about pig lock-offs on supper steep rock with some long throws in there as well. All said and done I sent on my third go! Enjoy the video.

Superman V6 Superhero Boulders from Tymun Abbott on Vimeo.

The sun went down on day one but I was coming back for more for sure. Overcast was the call for day two but a lot more rock was left to send so I headed back in. It all started on a nice looking block of stone with some small holds on it. After making a better landing three nice problems came out.

Two problems on the face are V5 and the one on the left side is V3. I also tried the traverse but could not put it all together. I think it will be a V6 when done. Next it was off to a nice long boulder with some great traverse options on it.

I got 15 more problems put up on the second day out. The rock is so clean that you just show up and climb. Hear are a few more shots of some of the climbing.

A nice fun V0 traverse and the next one is a cool sit start V2.

To end the day I did a little dyno up the middle that came in at a nice V2 as well.
Well I will be heading back again to finish things up but until then keep on sending out there. It has been a great start to the fall climbing season and I hope it keeps up.

Friday, September 7, 2012

Rock Creek with sends in mind.

I have been heading up to Rock Creek crag in Washington the last few weekends in hopes of finishing some of my projects up there. I love the climbing on clean vertical rock and the views are great from the crag. I always seam to be up there with only two people so I do not get pics of the climbing but hear are some shots of the creek.

The creek is quite pretty at low water as well as high water. As far as the projects go I have been trying a 12b that is super solid and has some very tricky moves. The crux comes at the top but the route is hard right off the deck. I feel like I am getting super close and might send next go.
Western Skink
At the end of the day last two weeks ago I put up a new route there witch climbs a double arete up a column. The crux is three dead-points slapping your way up the arete's. I almost sent on a flash attempt but was just to tired after working on the 12b. This new one goes at 12a and might be the most fun. There are now 6 12s at rock creek and also a lot of moderates. I still see some more lines that I want to send up there as well so I hope I can get them done before the weather turns.

Monday, September 3, 2012

Finding more boulders.

The search is always on when it comes to new rock of any form but a couple of weeks ago it was the boulders that I wanted to find. So off to explore some places that I had seen potential before was the plan for the day. Great weather and sun was the call for the day and I could not weight to hit the rocks if there were any to find.
Zebra Boulder
 A nice 12 foot boulder was the first one I cam to with great rock so I put the pad down and started in.
A nice v2 up the overhang

A nice v2 up the overhang

 Problems were on all sides and it turned out to be a great warm-up boulder to get the blood going and the fingers ready for pulling. On the back side was a tall slab.
VB Slab
As I looked around from the top I saw the next boulder and headed off in that direction. When I got there it was even taller and had some harder lines waiting for me.
Zion Boulder
This boulder was a bit bigger and had some real gems on it. I started with some problems on the backside.
Nice powerful V2

Nice powerful V2

A V3 to the right.

Steep with good holds
 Around to the front I went to take on the big overhang.
Tall V3
An easy start leads to a tall and committing move out the bulge with a nice mantel to finish things off. Then it was on to the right arete for some fun on the jugs.
V1 at its best.
I found more boulders but was out of time for today so maybe next time. I am looking forward to it for sure.