Sunday, June 24, 2012

Escape the Heat and the Rain

After a long day at work last Wednesday I thought that a hit to the Cascade Boulders was just the thing to beat the heat. The woods out there are so thick that it can be quite cool and the breeze makes it supper nice for climbing most of the year. My first problem was that I had no partner so I send out some messages and called my father to see what he was doing. He let me know that he was in for a trip to the woods so I picked him up and headed out. We were met with sun and beautiful wild flowers on the hike in witch was a nice start to the evening.


Tiger Lilly
The first place I went was to check on the spring boulder and see if the water had gone down at all. The spring has been so wet this year that I do not think I will be cleaning this one until the end of the season.
Spring Boulder
Next it was off to the triplets to clean the last boulder and see what things looked like. A nice large block with 5 problems on it waiting was the result but I need some help from the rain to get all the dust off so maybe it will be ready for sending next time out. By this time the sun had gone down a little ways so I went out to the east scree field to finish some boulders I cleaned a couple months back. At this point Rob who I meet on facebook showed and we got started on some climbing. We started with a smaller boulder that I cleaned that had a line of pockets heading up its left side. After some work the line went at V5 and had some  nice hard pulls on small positive pockets. Rob sent the direct version at a much more moderate grade and then it was of to the bigger boulder next door.
Me topping out on Mosquito Eater V1
At about 12 feet high and with a face that overhangs this was one that I could not weight to get back to. I cleaned the lines when it was all wet and have not been on it since. We both sent the warm up and then started in on the overhanging main line.
Rob sending Mosquito Eater V1
The line starts down on the far right and climbs the overhanging line all the way to its high point. Then a hard mantal is needed to top out the boulder. After some close examination of the holds I gave the line a try. It all starts with a long reach left to a small gaston. Then lock it all off and go big over the top with the right hand to a small edge. Next it's an all points off throw to a good but slopping left hand on the lip. Feet up and throw for the only hold on the upper face. The problem was I could not seam to stick the last move our even reach the hold.
Me working Jungle Juice V7
After 5 goes that night it got dark and I still did not know how I was going to reach that final hold. As we walked back to the cars I thought about a different plan for next time out. Now I could not wait to get back and see if it would work.
          Friday evening came and I was ready to head back out for what I hoped would be a send. The big question was would it be dry since it was just starting to sprinkle in town. We got there about 5pm and started the hike in and again were met with great flowers and cool air. The best part was it was dry and not looking like rain.
I had a little more cleaning to do on the way in so I stopped off and got that done first. Then off to the project to see if the new beta would work. I new the new beta would not be any easier but I was just looking for some way to get to the last hold at this point. By the time we got the pads set up and the camera ready I started feeling rain drops and new the clock was ticking. My first go got me to the last move but I did not have the sloper right and so I came up short. Next I rested as long as I thought that I could get away with considering the weather and then it was on. In my head I was thinking if you get that far just go for it.
Hitting the gaston

Big power to the small crimp

Setting up the first dyno.
Sticking the dyno

Looking for the bad sloper foot.
Foot on and eyeing the last small hold.
Just go for it!!

Sticking the last hold!!

Wishing the last hold was much better but setting up the mantal anyway.

Left foot is on and topping out is certain!
What a great line with an incredible finish. Shortly there after the rain started to fall harder and by the time we got back to the car everything was wet. A great finish to a great evening. I look forward to next time out and some more sends. Thanks for reading and keep climbing.

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Boxcar comes to life.

Well it has been a while in the making but the video is finally hear. Mark Huth sent Boxcar 5.13c a while back and asked if I would film him on the climb. I jumped at the chance and we did a day of filming. The route was first done by Ryan and what a great line he put up.
Ryan on Boxcar @ Rat Cave
Ryan on Boxcar @ Rat Cave
 Enjoy the video.

Monday, June 18, 2012

Cascade's new problems.

Last wednesday I had the chance to introduce someone to the Cascade boulders. I was looking forward to getting out and seeing what some other people had done as well so it was going to be a good trip. We started of at one of my favorite problems to get warm.
BLT V4  Jesse Firestone
After some sends on the Cascade Boulder we hit the Cookie boulder for a nice pump.

Some like it Wet V5 Jesse Firestone
Next it was on to something hard. I decided to show Jesse the V7 and see what hard pulling was like. He took a good look at the holds and the beta and went for the flash. He sent and what a nice send it was. Nice work Jesse. Right after he saw a right start to the boulder and started in on it. I think it will go soon but today was not the day.
Jesse trying to hit the first move on a new hard project.
Ready for new things I showed the way out to the main screen boulder field and some boulders that were cleaned by people other than me. Thanks so much for the work people. We sent like crazy and did 7 problems from V0 to V6 but all in all one stood out above the rest for pure fun. Las Drogas V3 dyno! a big throw from one block to the other. Wow is the word.
Tymun sending Las Drogas V3 Super Fun!!
Hear is a video make you want to get on this one.

Well I will be hitting the boulders this Wednesday night looking for more sending. Drop me a line if anyone wants to come out.

Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Sending at the Rat Cave

I got the chance to shoot some photo's of Mark Huth a couple weeks ago as he sent Fully Horizontal 5.13c. This line has not seen a send since the first half of the climb was changed by winter rock fall. Very incredible to watch as Mark gave his all for the send of one of the harder lines at the cave.

Monday, June 11, 2012

Bouldering and the Mountains

Sunday I left the house with all the gear packed. I was not quite sure how the day was going to go so I made sure I had it all. Bouldering pads, pack, rack, cleaning tools, bolting gear, and camera gear just in case. As it turns out the day was a little of everything. Heading out to the cascade boulders was the first order of business so I could check on some reticent sending out there and get the beta all in order. The wild flowers are starting to come out and the trail in was very beautiful.

Medows by the Orchard

I headed straight for the scree area to see what had been done and found some nice looking lines done. I climb one line wich was a nice arete / rail.
Nice arete rail.
After getting the info that I needed I headed out and saw a large grove of flowers on the way out to the car.

The next stop for the day was going to be the Rock Creek crag were I am working on some 12a's and b's but I did not get there. I got distracted by the creek and the flowers and a baby deer about 2 days old.
Can you find him?

He was about 2' long and 1' high.
The drainage is incredible with some nice waterfalls.
Rock Creek

Rock Creek Falls
Seeing how it was about mid afternoon I thought that a view out would be nice to end the day so I when for some alpine fun and a short hike.
The view from the car.

The destination

From the parking spot that I chose.

Looking north.
By this time of year there should be a lot of wild flowers out but not so much yet this year. There were how ever avalanche lilies all over.

Beautiful back light.

So many and some Trillium's as well.

Some nice views from the top and it was time to call it a day. What a great day to be out side.
Mt Hood

Mt St Hellins, Mt Rainier, and Mt Adams
 Well a great end to a great day. More climbing to come. Hope you all got out as well.

Saturday, June 2, 2012

Larch Bouldering Rocks The House!!!

It's those surprise climbing sessions that just turn out to be amazing that keeps me so addicted to the sport. A short 4 hour session at Larch on Wednesday night was the plan and the weather was looking good so off I went. I was met with great views and nobody climbing at all when I got there.
Sunset Mt Hood
In the warm-up session I got on some high problems and found some cool tall projects to work for next time.
18' boulder with the crux at the end.

Staring the crux.
This first problem went up a steep v and into a overhang. I think I will send next time out. The one to the right climbs an overhanging arete all the way up and is a bit harder.
Steep Atete

Steep Atete
Once the warming up was done I got on a classic hard line to get the pulling going and to get ready for the Magnificent Seven project session.
Winchester Sit V6 Start in the Crack

Stick the dino

Bump to the undercling.
Bump again to the pinch in the crack

Throw big for the jug.

Let the feet go and reset high.

Bump right to the jug.
This 60 degree overhanging crack is a great line. Incredible dynamic movement on super steep rock. Power is the name of the game hear. Next it was on the the Magnificent Seven. The problem is comprised of 60 degree overhanging rock and climbs for about 30 feet. The crux is half way and is a super hard long throw to a jug from a small but positive hold with horizontal feet. It all starts with a throw out of the box to a jug. Then up and left to a pinch. Match and toss out left to a small in-cut. Drop the right need big and do a hard pull over the body to the small positive crimp edge. It is about V5 to hear and now the crux. Rocket the feet up horizontal and slap the vertical wall as you extend out toward the jug that is 4 feet away. At the last second throw for the jug and check the huge swing as your feet rip off the wall. Setting up is about V6 and the move feels like V8. If you stick the jug match and bump left to a nice edge. Now for the most fun move ever. Jump for the next left hand jug 4 feet away and then throw the heal up and on. The end is just a big sires of deadpoints between big holds and make for one incredible V4. I will let the video do the talking.

If you are going to try it by your self you will need about 6 pads and some guts. I would recommend 3 pads and 2 spoters and a camera man to get it all on film. What an incredible line. Well I am off to climb so have a great day all.