Tuesday, July 17, 2012

It's Hot It's Cold It's Cascade

Well on Friday the 13th of all days I got out to Cascade with my brother who is in town for a week or soo. The weather was good but I was worried about the heat.
Nice Wild Flowers

More Wild Flowers
The flowers were out and the boulders were dry so off to finish cleaning the last boulder in the triplets area. We spent about 1hr finishing Moe and when all was done my brother was not sure what to do.

Climb I said and started getting ready for some FA action.
Starting in on a V2 on the Moe boulder
As it turns out the Moe boulder has 5 problems from VB to V hard. There was a very nice tall line up the north face that went at V3 that I liked the best on the block.
Silent Film V3 FA

That large crimp.
Next it was on the the other side witch gave up a nice V2 with a little dyno.
Hair Tonic V2 FA

Hair Tonic V2 FA

Hair Tonic V2 FA

Hair Tonic V2 FA
Next my brother tried the V2 and got it first go. Very nice for sure.
Bro sends first V2
Since we finished with the Moe boulder I wanted to head out to the main scree area for some more fun. I found some shade to climb in but my brother found the sun. I think that he was ready for the heat after 100 degrees were he lives at home.
Sending a VB he cleaned

Sending a VB he cleaned
Sending a VB he cleaned

I tried some harder lines but no dice in the heat of the day so I cleaned a couple more boulders in the shade and finished the day with six more sends.

I hope all has been well and keep climbing.

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Rock Creek and Ropes

The last couple of weeks I have been trying to get out to Rock Creek crag to do some rope sending and route development. I got out three weeks ago and then again last weekend. The crag is small but has good rock and fun routes. There are also some opportunity for new routes out there so I have been hitting it when I can to do some FA's. Three weeks ago I got the FA of a project that I left from last year. It is a thin 12a with lots of smears for feet and super technical climbing thought. I called the route Thinset and it kind of got my season of roped climbing going. It also told me that all this bouldering has made me strong and not as low in endurance as I thought. Last weekend how ever was a different matter. First off the wild flowers are in bloom out there and that makes it a great place to hang out.

The cliff has lots of cracks on it but the routes that I am doing are on the faces in between. Small holds and compression climbing is the way on the latest route that I sent.
Rock Creek is the second terr.
We got out early to get in some sending before the rain. Just as I finished equipping the route it started to rain so I gave it a go. Wet rock and a messed up sequence ment no send so down I came hoping that it would stop soon. To my surprise the rain stopped and the rock dried. I belayed a friend on a 5.9 fa and then gave my project one more go. Quickly powering through the crux I keep my head in the game for the pumpy 11a finish and sent just as the real rain came down. Mists Of Time 12a fa.
Clipping the first bolt.

Going for the first crux move.

Crux number 2

Clipping the second bolt.

Working out the top section.

More 5.11 with the a head trip topout.
I hope to get back for more sending this weekend. Have a great 4th every one.