Day By Day - Rock Climbing and Life: December 2013

Every area that I climb at has its own unique properties. This set of boulders is no different. The rock is very granite like andusite. Boulders come in all sizes and the holds are mostly edges our slopers. The most telling thing hear is the water polished stone. Supper smooth which make for some serious smearing. I personally love the setting with its deep forest feel and large creek running right through it all. Plus the 5 second approach from the car is not bad either.

Beautiful creek and moss and trees sets the atmosphere of the bouldering.

Down in the creek the first boulder I tried and cleaned looked like a incredible line up a proud face. We filled in a little of the landing to keep the pad dry then it was time to give it a go. I stuck the throw on my second try and then calmly mantalled out. The line was so good I decided to name it after my youngest daughter, Joy.

Joy Bean V3 FA at Rock Creek from Tymun Abbott on Vimeo.
This boulder has some incredible lines and to the right of Joy Bean I found a simple but supper hard line to work on. On this one there is just one hold a small rail crimp. After lots of work I stuck the lip dyno from this hold. On a second visit I managed to stick the match on the lip but there are 3 moves to go and I think they will be supper hard just like the first two.

Dorian with his eye on the Project

Going for the dyno

Almost stuck it.

After a few tries on the project we headed to the back side to get out of the sun. On the back side there lies a 30 foot traverse with a great hard top out at the end. We cleaned the line and took a couple of turns. I can say this is one of the best lines I have ever been on! Supper steep heal hooking all the way with a hard finish. The pump is incredible.

Rock Creek Traverse from Tymun Abbott on Vimeo.
The next day I came back to head for the deep shade of the forest and start in on the boulders right next to the car. A 30 foot steep slab got cleaned as well as a nice block below and it steep neighbor. There are 8 lines on the main block and 2 on the small but steep one next door. The tall slab has three lines on it as well.

Central Mini Arete

On the north side of the boulder was a nice hard line with a supper low start and a hard move to link. After some hard work a send came and Rock of Gibraltar was born.

Start Low on good rail.

Traverse Rail

Get feet up

Throw for slope

The final goal for the day was to have a go at the small boulder just past this one. There was a small foot to start on and a tiny crimp for a hand. It looked like if I could get started a throw might get me to some better holds for a send.