Wednesday, April 11, 2012

FA's, Cleaning, and more Cascade Boulders

I think there comes a point in any project were you start to see the light at the end of the tunnel and this give you more motivation to finish the job at hand. Out at the cascade boulders I thought that this was the case. I could not have been more wrong! Saturday was a nice sunny day with a little wind on the east side of the boulders. This time out I thought that I would start on the west side and miss out on the wind. Sure enough when I got out there the wind had disappeared and the sun was just peaking over the tops of the tree's. Since last time out I had left some boulders for the rain to finish cleaning so there would be climbs waiting this time. The one question in my mind was would the rock be dry? After all it had just rained last night and it is the gorge. Not only was the rock totally dry but supper sticky! Compelled by the thoughts of trying out my new Revolution crash pad I could not have asked for better conditions. I started with a short 12' boulder and then moved on to sending on 2 18' boulders. 2 great problems came out of the rock, both V0 and supper fun.
Supper Nova V0 FA

Next it was off to a traverse that I seamed to have missed before. A quick cleaning and it was ready to go as well. A few moves later and a nice 18' traverse was in the bag. Sharks Back V2. With the sun on my sitting spot lunch was in order. I thought about the 7 FA's in the bag already and it occurred to me that maybe a little exploration was in order plus there was those other 2 boulders that I could clean off for next time out.
So many kinds of moss.
With cleaning brush in hand I walked the 100' over to the new blocks and cleaned of 5 new problems for next time out. I through the pad on my back and headed to the west side of the area that I was in for a close look at things. Surprise is what followed next. 20+ new problems on some incredible looking stone that I had missed the last time I wondered though this area. Now the debate was on. Do I clean everything in sight our go for an old project that has not wanted to yeald to this point.
Supper Nova V0
Long ago I learned that when doing FA's at new crags it is best to finish what you have started before making more work to do our spreading your self to thin. With this in mind it was off to the Pocket boulders for some goes on the Perseverance SS. Temps were cool, rock was sticky, so now all I needed was to come up with the power for the send. Pulling on I felt strong and the first though went supper well. My hands  fell strong as I crushed the small crimp and pulled into the lock off to set up the crux. As it turns out the feet (our lack there of them) is the problem on this one. Throwing for the slopper I felt so in control I new I had a chance but just as I caught the hold my key foot popped and I slammed against the rock. To my surprise I did not let go and threw my feet back on and went for the supper slopping heal hook. Bearing down with the will to never let go I thought to my self I am not going to fall now. Just as I started to throw for the final hold the heal popped! I grunted and put it back on. I was not about to wait for it to blow again so I thew with all my might and Success!! Rocking on to the top I could not be leave what had just happened. A send on the first try of the day. Perseverance Sit was done and a V7 was added to the area.
Perseverance Sit V7 FA sticking the 1st crux move

Perseverance Sit V7 FA Heel up and go for the top.

At this point I could have called it an end to the day but on the way to the car I stopped of at the Orchard boulders and sent 3 more problems on the way out. All in all it was a 12 FA's day from VB to V7 and all forms off climbing to be had.  Looking forward to this next weekend for some more sending out at the Cascade Boulders. Drop me an email our a note if you want to check them out.

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