Saturday, May 28, 2016

Deep Forest Bouldering; The little ones

When it comes down to it some times I enjoy the shorter ones more than the tall ones because I find that for me it is easier to pull hard and go for the big moves when your not high on a boulder. Over the years as I have wondered through the woods I have found some great short boulders that are three to five moves long and supper steep our hard the whole way. On this particular day that was my focus and thus some short cool problems were born.
Just into the FA of Hwacha V4
This boulder problem starts with a hard pull to get the left hand up and then a strong lock off to reach a small crimp with the right hand.
Getting my foot up on FA of Hwacha V4
Setting up for a very long pull on small crimps to a not so good hold is the way that this problem finishes up.
The lock off on Hwacha V4
Almost there
Short problems are all about power and some times come with a great natural sit start. In the case of this next one a big throw right off the ground was the ticket.
The sit start on the FA of Genghis Khan V4
Full on right out of the gate is how this one works. Explode up for a good hold with the left hand and the match.
Sticking the dyno on Genghis Khan V4
 Lock off the right and pull up to a small shallow pocket. Maybe more of a dish than anything.
Sticking the lock off on Genghis Khan V4
 A big heal hook with a long mantal gets you over the lip.
The heal hook on Genghis Khan V4
Rocking over and on to the top on Genghis Khan V4
On this day I was feeling strong and the conditions were very good so I thought about a project that I had tried before. This line has a very long sideways reach off bad holds to a supper pore crimp. The boulder is about twelve feet tall and overhangs about ten degrees. Every move is pure power in the core of your body.
Starting the FA of Natasha V6
 Just getting on the boulder is a big gaston with the left on a not so great hold. I dig in with my right foot and lock the core to setup the next move.
Pressing up into the setup position on Natasha V6
 Stand up tall and lock everything off this is one of the most precise throws I have ever done. I found that if I settled at all I would not hold the dyno.
Stuck it! Natasha V6
 Once I stuck the move thats when I found I had to move both feet up and hang my full weight off the bad hold to be able to throw for the next hold witch was a lot better but still a slopper.
Setting up and committing to the bad hold in full on Natasha V6
Stuck the next throw and getting the feet up.
 Once I stuck the next hold I was not going to fall but its a powerful move to bring your feet up and stand to the first big hold on the boulder.
The send is in hand. Natasha V6
This day was a great trip into the boulders with some big sends. Small our large I love bouldering and finding new boulders to clean and develop. Hears hopping you get out and climb soon.