|Me topping out on Mosquito Eater V1|
At about 12 feet high and with a face that overhangs this was one that I could not weight to get back to. I cleaned the lines when it was all wet and have not been on it since. We both sent the warm up and then started in on the overhanging main line.
|Rob sending Mosquito Eater V1|
The line starts down on the far right and climbs the overhanging line all the way to its high point. Then a hard mantal is needed to top out the boulder. After some close examination of the holds I gave the line a try. It all starts with a long reach left to a small gaston. Then lock it all off and go big over the top with the right hand to a small edge. Next it's an all points off throw to a good but slopping left hand on the lip. Feet up and throw for the only hold on the upper face. The problem was I could not seam to stick the last move our even reach the hold.
|Me working Jungle Juice V7|
After 5 goes that night it got dark and I still did not know how I was going to reach that final hold. As we walked back to the cars I thought about a different plan for next time out. Now I could not wait to get back and see if it would work.
Friday evening came and I was ready to head back out for what I hoped would be a send. The big question was would it be dry since it was just starting to sprinkle in town. We got there about 5pm and started the hike in and again were met with great flowers and cool air. The best part was it was dry and not looking like rain.
I had a little more cleaning to do on the way in so I stopped off and got that done first. Then off to the project to see if the new beta would work. I new the new beta would not be any easier but I was just looking for some way to get to the last hold at this point. By the time we got the pads set up and the camera ready I started feeling rain drops and new the clock was ticking. My first go got me to the last move but I did not have the sloper right and so I came up short. Next I rested as long as I thought that I could get away with considering the weather and then it was on. In my head I was thinking if you get that far just go for it.
|Hitting the gaston|
|Big power to the small crimp|
|Setting up the first dyno.|
|Sticking the dyno|
|Looking for the bad sloper foot.|
|Foot on and eyeing the last small hold.|
|Just go for it!!|
|Sticking the last hold!!|
|Wishing the last hold was much better but setting up the mantal anyway.|
|Left foot is on and topping out is certain!|
What a great line with an incredible finish. Shortly there after the rain started to fall harder and by the time we got back to the car everything was wet. A great finish to a great evening. I look forward to next time out and some more sends. Thanks for reading and keep climbing.