Saturday, June 2, 2012

Larch Bouldering Rocks The House!!!

It's those surprise climbing sessions that just turn out to be amazing that keeps me so addicted to the sport. A short 4 hour session at Larch on Wednesday night was the plan and the weather was looking good so off I went. I was met with great views and nobody climbing at all when I got there.
Sunset Mt Hood
In the warm-up session I got on some high problems and found some cool tall projects to work for next time.
18' boulder with the crux at the end.

Staring the crux.
This first problem went up a steep v and into a overhang. I think I will send next time out. The one to the right climbs an overhanging arete all the way up and is a bit harder.
Steep Atete

Steep Atete
Once the warming up was done I got on a classic hard line to get the pulling going and to get ready for the Magnificent Seven project session.
Winchester Sit V6 Start in the Crack

Stick the dino

Bump to the undercling.
Bump again to the pinch in the crack

Throw big for the jug.

Let the feet go and reset high.

Bump right to the jug.
This 60 degree overhanging crack is a great line. Incredible dynamic movement on super steep rock. Power is the name of the game hear. Next it was on the the Magnificent Seven. The problem is comprised of 60 degree overhanging rock and climbs for about 30 feet. The crux is half way and is a super hard long throw to a jug from a small but positive hold with horizontal feet. It all starts with a throw out of the box to a jug. Then up and left to a pinch. Match and toss out left to a small in-cut. Drop the right need big and do a hard pull over the body to the small positive crimp edge. It is about V5 to hear and now the crux. Rocket the feet up horizontal and slap the vertical wall as you extend out toward the jug that is 4 feet away. At the last second throw for the jug and check the huge swing as your feet rip off the wall. Setting up is about V6 and the move feels like V8. If you stick the jug match and bump left to a nice edge. Now for the most fun move ever. Jump for the next left hand jug 4 feet away and then throw the heal up and on. The end is just a big sires of deadpoints between big holds and make for one incredible V4. I will let the video do the talking.

If you are going to try it by your self you will need about 6 pads and some guts. I would recommend 3 pads and 2 spoters and a camera man to get it all on film. What an incredible line. Well I am off to climb so have a great day all.

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