Monday, August 6, 2012

A day with Joe and Boone

A few weeks back I got a chance to climb with Joe Kinder and Boone Speed at our local crag The Rat Cave. I have been climbing out there since 1998 and have always thought what it would be like for a pro to climb there. The cave climbs hard and is very beta intense and so there are not a lot of onsite's that take place out there so that's what has had me curious all these years.
Rat Cave
When I was back at the Red River George a few years ago I met Joe and so I was also looking forward to meeting him again. I feel he is a great ambasitor for the sport of rock climbing and can't say enough about all his work developing routes for the climbing community. Thanks for that. On this day the humidity was up as it always is this time of year but we cave climbers get used to it and love the workout that climbing at the cave brings. I think that Freak Show was the main draw for Joe and so after some warming up he got on it right away. I had the opertunity to belay him while he worked out the moves and the flow of the climb.
Joe on Freak Show 14a
He worked the moves out quite quickly. This struck me because I saw Ryan Palo send the FA and new just how hard this climb was. The next go was quite good and he one hung the route. The next video is go number 3 enjoy.

After that go he rested and made so small changes to his beta and sent the climb for its secound accent.

At the same time all of this was happening Boone Speed was working the climb as well and doing quite well. I can remember him from climbing videos that I used to watch. It was great to meet him and talk about climbing and photography.
Boone on Freak Show

Boone on Freak Show

Boone on Freak Show

Boone on Freak Show

Boone on Freak Show

Boone on Freak Show
As it turns out all were climbing well that day and that made for some great times for sure. Check out Joe's web site and video of  Freaky Deeky https://vimeo.com/46701686 He added a link from a harder start and a harder ending to give Portland it's first 14b. Thanks Joe for all your hard work and energy. Keep sending.

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